The Challenges & Rewards
of Making Our Own Feeds(link to orig. article)
HARVEY USSERY - WWW.THEMODERNHOMESTEAD.US
© 2007 TEXT & PHOTOS
Since I try to encourage readers to experiment with making their own feeds, I was encouraged to learn that Joyce Hilman in Maine has begun doing so. (See "Making Your Own Poultry Feed Brings Satisfaction...And More Questions," page 14.) I applaud the courage she displays in rejecting the notion that feed formulation is so precise and exacting a science that it is best left to the experts and the agribusiness companies. Clearly she has an intuitive sense that the feeds she is making are wholesome, and that her birds are responding positively to her new feeding regimen. I hope that the fact she has found the transition so easy will encourage other readers to try feed-making as well.
If you try making your own feed you will likely find, as Joyce has, that the project raises more questions than it answers. It is important not to allow that fact to discourage you from continuing. Proceeding with an openness to experimentation, to discovering what works best for you and your flock in your unique circumstances, is the key to success. Don't stress-enjoy the fun and creativity of experimentation, allowing the responses from your flock to be your best guide.
Questions
Joyce had specific questions in her letter to Backyard Poultry, so I'll try to answer each in turn.
"So. . .will Harvey write more on the subject[of feeding]? Has he heard about Pearson's Square?" I am familiar with the Pearson Square-a mathematical tool for determining the weights of two ingredients in a feed mix which will hit a target protein percentage. However, I have not used it in the formulation of my feeds. Perhaps you could say I'm just lazy-given the availability of computer spreadsheet programs, I find it so much easier to set up a spreadsheet which re-calculates the percentage of protein (and of fat or carbohydrate, or cost, or any other values I want to track) as I plug in different weights for the ingredients in the mix. We're not talking about extraordinarily geeky computer skills-entry-level acquaintance with a spreadsheet program is all that is needed to design a spreadsheet calculator. (See "A Feed Formulation Spreadsheet," page 47 for an example of a spreadsheet I designed, which would be easy to modify for your own needs.)
"Does he calculate supplements into the protein mix?" It depends on the supplement. Mineral supplements such as Fertrell's Nutri-Balancer or kelp meal contain no protein. However, some supplements are added primarily for their protein content-fish meal (60 percent protein) or crab meal (25 percent)-or carry a significant protein content in addition to their use for vitamin supplementation-dried cultured yeast (for vitamin supplementation, especially the B complex, but contains 18 percent protein as well). Failure to take into account the protein contribution of such supplements will lead to serious underestimation of the protein in the total mix. For example, I have a formula for layer feed that calls for two pounds of fish meal, one and one-half pounds of crab meal, and two pounds of dried yeast. If I ignore the protein contribution of these ingredients, the calculated protein percentage is 13.6 percent. When their protein contribution is properly figured in, however, it is obvious that the actual protein for the mix is 15.5 percent.
However, perhaps Joyce's question is meant to be: "If you feed protein supplements like fish meal separately, free choice, how do you calculate their contribution to protein as a percentage in the overall feeding program? " In this case the answer is: Trust your chickens, and don't worry about it. Experiments have shown that chickens simultaneously offered two (or more) feeds with different percentages of protein will self-select a mix of the feeds that is close to the ideal protein content for their stage of growth.
"Is it alright to give hens spelt berries?" I don't know of any grains that are in use in the human diet which would not be perfectly appropriate as feed for chickens. As Joyce herself observed, the greater the diversity of the ingredients, the better and more balanced is likely to be the resulting feed.
"If I mill for meat bird and turkey chicks, will I have to mill to a less coarse end product?" The essential point here is that the fineness should be keyed to the age and species of the birds you are feeding. I quit grinding at all for my adult birds during the past winter. Even now I am feeding the adults whole grains and seeds exclusively; but when I started feeding my first batch of chicks in the spring, I turned the grinder back on to produce coarsely ground corn and peas to add to the starter feed. (However, from the beginning I fed the chicks small grains-wheat, oats, barley-and flax seeds whole.) I generally try to feed as coarse a grind as the young birds will eat well, thus avoiding as much as possible a residue of "fines" in the bottom of the feeder. (See below.) Someone who, like Joyce, is "human powering" the grinder will appreciate the reduced work load when the burrs are set to a coarser grind.
"Should I follow protein guidelines for new birds? (In his article, he seems to work with a 17.5 percent mix.)" That depends on the type, species, and age of birds you are working with, the source of the guidelines, and your own goals with your flock. Remember that many of the guidelines you see are targeted at flocks of fast-growing hybrids, with the implicit assumption that the birds should be pushed for fastest possible growth. For example, it is recommended that commercial turkey poults be started on a 28 percent protein feed. Commercial broiler chicks are usually started on 22 percent feed. If you are raising layers, or if-like many homesteaders-you prefer to work with the older, traditional farm breeds, you should not be following such guidelines. If raising layers or heritage breeds, you should actually aim for a more moderate rate of growth, which helps develop a stronger metabolism and immune system and a well-regulated reproductive system, and avoids the deposition of unhealthy levels of fat.
Do remember that recommendations of protein levels almost universally assume confined flocks totally dependent on the feed provided by the owner. To the extent that the homesteader keeps her flock on pasture or free-ranging as much as possible, her birds will be getting a good deal of their protein from the slugs, worms, and insects they forage. Since I keep my flocks full time either on pasture or on a mulched winter feeding yard [see "Chickens in the Greenhouse" in the April/May issue], I am usually rather conservative with protein in the feeds I make.
"Any hints on obtaining whole grains, other than stubborn persistence?" Really stubborn persistence? This is the most common complaint I hear from flock owners who would like to give "homemade" a try-that they cannot find many of the ingredients suggested; or that owners of the local co-op exhibit no interest in procuring feedstocks other than the usual commercial formulations. Try to find others in your area who might be willing to give feed-making a try-multiple requests at the co-op might produce results. Or perhaps several flock owners together could convince a local farmer to grow for them. Also, be willing to be creative with unusual ingredients that are available. For instance, I've had reports from home-feeders who rely heavily on sunflower seed (about 24 percent protein) or sunflower meal (a byproduct of pressing sunflower oil, 35 percent protein) in their feeding programs. Sorghum and millet are roughly interchangeable with corn. They're even less available than more common feed grains, you say? Have you checked the label on a bag of wild bird seed? I've been in touch with flock owners who buy such seed in 50-pound bags and use that as the foundation for their feeding program. Any whole grains and seeds that have no contaminants and are normally in the diet of humans or wild birds should appeal to poultry and help fulfill their nutritional needs.
Incidentally, I find it encouraging that Joyce is so determined to use whole natural ingredients as much as possible. Most owners with access to a co-op will be able to buy whole corn, wheat, and oats. Barley is more often available rolled or flaked, so does not remain as fresh as whole grains. A protein-enhancing legume is more likely to be a stumbling block. Joyce is lucky to get field peas (Pisum arvense)-in my experience, most people outside my area who try to buy them cannot find them anywhere. If that is your case, whole roasted soybeans might be the best alternative. Unfortunately, soybeans in today's market are more likely to be genetically modified than any other feed ingredient, a fact deeply troubling to many thoughtful homesteaders. Certified organic beans will not be genetically modified, but might be difficult to find.
"Will my forearms really look like Popeye?" Perhaps, but imagine your enhanced level of respect in the rougher neighborhoods.
"And does anyone besides my family members, want to place bets on how long I can go without a motor on my mill? (We live with solar power, and though we could afford the minimal power, I rather enjoy the process, especially when a favored hen, low in the pecking order, sits atop the dish and eats as I mill!)" I'm glad that Joyce is finding hand-milling a fun project. I myself made feed for my birds for a long time using a Corona hand mill. At a certain increase in the size of my flocks, however, I simply could not sustain the time and effort involved. (I make anywhere from three to five tons of feed per year.) Joyce indicates she is eager to expand her feed-making operation (to feed turkeys, 50 meat chickens, two goats). It may be that she too will conclude at some point along a rising curve of effort that she needs to "power up" as well. (Perhaps by hooking the goats up to one of those animal-powered rotary mills? ) Another option to reduce the hand labor, of course, is to stop milling for the adult birds-who unquestionably have the capability of grinding even large seeds like corn and peas in the gizzard-and save that labor for use where it is really needed, grinding feed for the young ones.
Other Observations Regarding Joyce's Methods
The problem of "the fines": Commercial feeds are pressed into crumbles or pellets, so maintain a uniform consistency throughout. Makers of home made feeds often find that the finer portion of the grind-and especially powdery supplements such as fish meal, kelp meal, or a mineral-vitamin mix such as Fertrell's Nutri-Balancer-accumulates at the bottom of the feeder, since the chickens find it difficult to eat such powdery ingredients. Like Joyce, I find that it is best to take out this residue regularly and mix with a little water-or, much better, some broth or soured milk-to encourage the birds to eat it. Be sure to feed only what they will clean up thoroughly within the hour-do not leave it to mold or support growth of pathogens.
Feeding supplements free choice: Joyce's willingness to experiment is indicated by the fact that she switched to offering the fish meal as a free-choice supplement. Her chickens, smarter than most poultry feeding scientists, have found their needed protein balance on their own. In the case of feeding adult birds, I too have begun offering supplements separately (kelp meal, feeding limestone, Nutri-Balancer, and Redmond's livestock salt), allowing the birds to self-select free choice. At the moment I am still adding the supplements as part of the mix in my starter feed, but Joyce has inspired me to start experimenting with offering fish meal and mineral supplements free choice to the chicks as well.
"Day time free range": Joyce is wise to give her flock maximum opportunity to forage live, natural foods for themselves. All flock owners designing their own feeding programs should remember: The greater the flock's access to such live, natural foods, the less we have to worry about precise mathematical balances in the mixes we formulate for them. Avoid having the flock be totally dependent on what you offer them. If like Joyce's flock, yours can spend some of its time "digging through the compost heap," you can be more conservative on expensive protein ingredients such as fish meal-the birds will get high-quality foods on their own, and you will save money.
Use of feeding enzymes or probiotics: Joyce is using a commercial feeding enzyme called "Grindazyme." ("It looks just like salt and is used in a poultry mix when feeding whole grains like barley, wheat or oats. It is a feed enzyme to help digest these grains when fed whole.") Some owners making their own feeds also use probiotics (live cultures fed in small amounts to boost the microflora in the gut). I don't think a flock having access to diverse natural feeds needs these supplementations. Chickens naturally eat whole seeds, so are equipped to digest them efficiently. It is only when large amounts of any single grain are fed that addition of feeding enzymes may be called for. For example, if feeding more than 30 percent wheat, or more than 15 percent oats or barley (alone or in combination), you would do well to feed added enzyme such as Grindazyme to avoid digestive problems with such concentrated proportions of these whole grains. Actually, whole grains have been shown to have a lot of microbial activity on their surfaces, so feeding them is an excellent way of boosting microflora in the digestive tract.
Frustrations
Joyce reveals a couple of frustrations likely to be shared by anyone who takes up the challenge of making their own feeds.
The paradox of paying more for home-made than for commercial feeds: Commercial feeds are produced using huge economies of scale not available to the home flock owner. They are also formulated from ingredients which are mediocre at best, in some cases highly questionable. The flock owner paying more to make her own feeds can take comfort, at least, in knowing she is making fresher, more nutritious feeds-superior in every way to the commercial equivalents.
So much to learn! Joyce seemed to be rather frustrated that the feeding article I wrote did not contain more precise prescriptions for exact amounts and proportions of the various feed ingredients. There is no way I can give you fixed "recipes" for making feeds. Your feeds will most likely be formulated from different available ingredients from mine, your management will differ from mine (especially with regard to access to self-foraged live natural foods)-and finally, the whole subject of ingredients, ratios, and balances is huge, far too big for a single article.
Your chickens are your best teachers. Joyce is learning from her flock what feeds and feeding work best for them. (Even her goats are persuading her to start feeding them differently, through their lively interest in those lucky chickens' food! )
There is a lot of literature on the subject of poultry feeding-all the "homework" you want to put in on the subject will be well rewarded. I strongly recommend going back to some of the older literature on the subject, from a time when more natural approaches to feeding were assumed. A book I use, and recommend, is Feeding Poultry, by G. F. Heuser, re-printed by Robert Plamondon's Norton Creek Press (www.plamondon.com).
Of course, it is good to get the advice and accumulated wisdom of those who are more experienced at the game. I strongly recommend joining the American Pastured Poultry Producers Association (www.apppa.org). For a slight increase over basic membership dues, you can join the APPPA's online discussion group (APPPAplus@yahoogroups.com)-far and away the best such group I take part in-and get access to information-dense archives such as "Pasture-Raised Poultry Nutrition," by Jeff Mattocks of The Fertrell Company. Many people in the group make their own feeds, and have excellent information to share about what has worked for them.
Harvey Ussery and his wife Ellen live on 2-1/2 acres near the Blue Ridge in Northern Virginia. They produce much of their own food-including all their eggs and dressed poultry from a mixed pastured flock-and offer their homestead as model and inspiration to others aspiring to the homesteading life. Harvey has written for Mother Earth News, publications of American Pastured Poultry Producers Association, and Countryside & Small Stock Journal, which published his "Achieving Food Independence on the Modern Homestead," based on his presentation at the 2006 conference of Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture. Visit his website at www.themodernhomestead.us.
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A Feed Formulation Spreadsheet
BY HARVEY USSERY
Anyone with an entry-level working knowledge of electronic spreadsheets can adapt the spreadsheet I designed for assisting with feed formulation. I have reduced the spreadsheet as presented here to its essentials for the sake of simplicity. In actual practice, I have several additional columns (for example, to calculate feed costs as I plug in different weight values for ingredients). You can add more columns as well, populating them with appropriate formulas to calculate whatever values you wish to track (perhaps fats and carbohydrates in addition to protein). In this simplified version, however, we will calculate only the percent of protein in the mix, and the amounts of premix and individual ingredients to use as we make up single 25-pound batches.
The basic feed formulation spreadsheet.
Note first of all that the ingredients are divided into "Premix" and "Grind/Whole Portion." It would be extremely inefficient to measure out the supplements, which are added in relatively small amounts, into the mix when making up individual batches. Therefore, we mix together the premix ingredients for, say, 500 pounds, then weigh out into individual plastic bags the appropriate amount for a 25-pound batch, then store the bags until needed.
The actual list of ingredients on your spreadsheet will likely differ from that of mine, of course. I like to note in the list, in parentheses, the percent protein of each ingredient. (I do this just as a reminder to myself-it has nothing to do with the calculations of the formulas.) Note that I've also added a reminder to myself never to add more than 2-1/2 pounds of crab meal in any formulation (since its selenium, a necessary trace mineral, can actually have a toxic effect in large amounts).
I have used colored backgrounds to highlight the two key types of cells in the spreadsheet. (The colored shading is for illustration only-there is no need to use colored backgrounds in your spreadsheet.) Cells with a light yellow background are cells into which you will enter data. That is, you will enter weights for individual ingredients you are considering. Cells with a light green background are cells into which you will enter formulas. (See "The basic feed formulation spreadsheet.")
Formulas to enter into cells requiring them. (Note: Actual syntax of the formulas might be different for your spreadsheet program.)
In the second spreadsheet (See "Formulas to enter into cells requiring them."), I have printed the formulas to be entered into the requisite cells. In an actual electronic spreadsheet, of course, the formula itself is not displayed in the cell-only the numerical result of the formula's calculation is displayed. Please note that the exact syntax for formulas in your spreadsheet program may differ from that in the formulas given here. (I use Gnumeric, an open source spreadsheet program.) Use the Help section of your spreadsheet program to determine the exact syntax required-otherwise, your formulas will not function.
Download Spreadsheets Here:
You may download the spreadsheet calculator described in Harvey Ussery's article "A Feed Formulation Spreadsheet" as a tool for designing your own feed mixes. Select the appropriate version for your particular needs:
If you use Excel, the spreadsheet program in Microsoft's Office suite, click on "feed-calculator.xls" to download the spreadsheet.
Those who prefer open source tools will probably have Open Office, the closest open source equivalent to Microsoft Office, in their system. If you use Open Office, click on "feed-calculator.ods" to download the spreadsheet.
Versions of both Open Office and Microsoft Office are available for use on Macintosh systems. Users of less common spreadsheet programs, such as the open source Gnumeric, are doubtless savvy enough to download the feed calculator as either an Excel or an Open Office file, and convert to their own native format.
Whichever version you choose to download, also click on "feed-calculator-instructions.txt", a plain text file that describes the use of the spreadsheet calculator.
Once you have downloaded the appropriate version of the calculator spreadsheet, you may rename it anything you wish, and file it in any convenient place in your filesystem.
The first formula to enter is in Cell B18, which simply sums all the values in the cells above it [=sum(B3:B16)], to give a total of all the individual weights you enter for the ingredients. (Note that as I enter values in Column B, I always ensure that this total comes out to 100 pounds, since that makes it easier to think in terms of percentages.)
Next we add formulas in Column C to calculate the amount of protein added by each ingredient, based on the weight of the ingredient added multiplied by its percent protein. Thus in Cell C6 (for fish meal), the formula is =B6*0.6-that is, the weight of fish meal entered in Cell B6 multiplied by 60 percent protein.
Having added a formula for every ingredient contributing protein (and note that there are no formulas entered for ingredients like kelp meal or Nutri-Balancer which do not), we now add a formula in Cell C18 to total all the individual amounts of protein calculated by those formulas, then divide by 100, to express the percent protein in the mix as a decimal: =sum(C3:C16)/100
At this point we are able to enter experimental values in Column B for any or all the ingredients, and the formulas entered thus far will automagically recalculate the amount of protein contributed by individual ingredients, and the percent protein for the mix. Now we add formulas in Column D to divide the amounts of all the ingredients figured on a hundredweight basis by four, to calculate the amounts of each to use when making up a 25-pound batch, a more practical amount to work with if mixing by hand.
The first formula entered in Column D (Cell D10) is a bit special, in that it first totals the amounts of ingredients per hundredweight to make the premix, then divides by four, in order to define the amount of premix to measure out per 25-pound batch, that is: =sum(B3:B9)/4
The other formulas in Column D are more straightforward-they simply divide the amount of the ingredient entered in Column B by four, to define the amount of that ingredient to measure out when making a 25-pound batch of feed. Thus in Cell D12, the amount of alfalfa meal to use per 25-pound batch is: =B12/4
Finally (basically as a check), we add a formula in Cell D18 to total the entries in Column D: =sum(D10:D16) (If we have a total in B18 of 100 pounds, the amount returned in D18 will always be 25 pounds.)
To see how the spreadsheet works, let's imagine we want to formulate a winter layer feed with a target protein value of 15 percent. We simply insert reasonable values for the individual ingredients (for a total of 100 pounds at Cell B18), and the spreadsheet recalculates the percent protein for the total mix at Cell C18, and the amounts of each ingredient needed to make a 25-pound batch. (Note that we can make any amount of premix at a time we wish, but Cell D10 tells us how much premix to weigh out and set aside for 25-pound batches.)
I said we enter "reasonable" amounts for ingredients. I cannot tell you what amounts to use in your own formulations-you still have a lot of homework to do on your own in formulating your feeds. For example, our amount for Nutri-Balancer will be based on Fertrell's recommendation for this supplement, and on the fact that our winter flock is confined to the poultry house on deep organic litter. In this case, two pounds of Nutri-Balancer per hundredweight is appropriate.
Sample winter layer mix.
In the case of our winter layer feed, we enter the values shown in "Sample winter layer mix." Note how, as we enter values in Column B, the sheet automatically recalculates new values in Columns C and D.
Sample mix for chicks on pasture
.
Suppose we want to formulate a starter feed for heritage breed chicks on pasture with mother hens. (See "Sample mix for chicks on pasture.") Since growing chicks do not need nearly as much calcium as adult layers, we greatly reduce the aragonite. We boost the fish meal to just over 5 percent of the total (which is the maximum we want to add for this ingredient), since growing chicks have higher protein needs than adult layers. Since the chicks will be eating plenty of fresh green grass, clovers, and weeds, we omit the alfalfa meal entirely. Note that the percent protein for this mix is 17.6 percent, well below the 22 percent that would be recommended for fast-growing meat hybrids such as Cornish Cross. However, heritage breed chicks have not been bred for such high-protein input. Also, the mother hens will certainly be supplying additional protein to the chicks in the form of insects and worms. Thus a protein percentage that is low by industry standards is perfectly appropriate for this home-mixed feed.
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